Mount Everest: Comparing the North Side vs. the South Side
As the highest point on Earth, Mount Everest attracts climbers and aspiring adventurers of all experience levels. Some are chasing the Seven Summits, others are seeking the greatest challenge of their lives, and a few simply want to check a box to impress their friends.
Everest welcomes everyone—it doesn’t discriminate. It offers a challenge to all who step onto its slopes. No other mountain on the planet operates with the scale and logistics that Everest does. As of now, 12,884 individuals have reached its summit. This number is only possible due to the incredible infrastructure, organization, and the tireless efforts of the Sherpa teams. Without their support, the number of successful summits would likely be fewer than 500.
Mt. Everest from the North Side basecamp
Two Routes, Two Worlds
Mt. Everest has two main climbing routes:
The South Col Route from Nepal
The Northeast Ridge Route from Tibet
Over the past few years, I’ve had the opportunity to guide expeditions on both sides. The purpose of this blog is to break down my experience and help you better understand and decide which side of the mountain you want to tackle.
Current Statistics
South Col Route (Nepal):
Summits: 9156
Deaths: 225
Base Camp Elevation: 17,586ft (5364m)
Total Mileage: 12.5 miles (20.5k)
Total Elevation Gain: 11443 ft (3484m)
Northeast Ridge (Tibet):
Summits: 3728
Deaths: 98
Base Camp Elevation: 16,896ft (5150m)
Total Mileage: 22 miles (36.5k)
Total Elevation Gain: 12,113 ft (3698m)
Approach to Base Camp
South Side (Nepal)
The approach to Everest Base Camp from Nepal is a classic, scenic trek. It starts with a flight from Kathmandu to Lukla (9,383 ft / 2,860 m). The short, high-altitude runway in Lukla makes for an exhilarating landing experience.
From there, you'll trek for 5–7 days through the Khumbu Valley, staying in crowded but charming tea houses. Along the way, you’ll pass ancient monasteries, experience rich Sherpa culture, and gain crucial acclimatization. The trek covers about 40 miles (65 km) and climbs 8,215 ft (2,504 m).
This approach is excellent for fitness and acclimatization, but for speed ascents using systems like Hypoxico, many opt to helicopter directly to base camp.
Pros:
Stunning views and cultural immersion
Builds fitness and acclimatization
Cons:
Higher risk of illness due to poor sanitation and crowded tea houses
Often overcrowded and noisy, especially from helicopters
Shared rooms make restful sleep difficult
View of Everest South Side Basecamp
North Side (Tibet)
The north approach is more comfortable and less physical. Climbers fly into Kathmandu or Chengdu, then continue to Lhasa (11,975 ft / 3,656 m). After a brief stay in a 3–5 star hotel, you meet your CTMA (China Tibet Mountaineering Association) liaison officer, who accompanies you throughout your stay.
You’ll spend 1–2 days in Lhasa exploring cultural sites like the Potala Palace, the former home of the Dalai Lama—truly a highlight of the journey. Then, you drive to Shigatse (12,600 ft / 3,840 m), Tengri (14,268 ft / 4,348 m), and finally base camp via paved roads and a short dirt stretch.
Pros:
Significantly lower risk of illness
Comfortable hotels and food throughout
Full 5G service and electricity at base camp
Private rooms and restful acclimatization
Breathtaking view of Everest from base camp
Cons:
Lengthy and sometimes stressful immigration process
No fitness gained en route; arrive fit
Views en route not as scenic as the south side
Base Camp Differences
Crowds & Permits
South Side: Nepal issues unlimited climbing permits. The base camp often hosts over 1,000 people and serves as a popular trekking destination. This increases the risk of sickness.
North Side: Tibet restricts the number of permits and requires climbers to have previously summited a 7,000-meter peak. Only climbers are allowed at base camp, resulting in a quieter, healthier environment.
Helicopters & Noise
South Side: Helicopters are used for transport and rescues. While convenient, they begin flying around 6:15 a.m. daily, creating constant noise until 6:00 p.m.
North Side: Helicopters are prohibited. This limits rescue options but creates a peaceful atmosphere.
Amenities & Connectivity
Both camps provide electricity, WiFi, and staffed kitchens. However:
North Side: Has full-time 5G cell service and electric grid power.
South Side: Offers solar-based electricity and unreliable, slow WiFi. Cell service requires a local SIM card.
Views
While both offer incredible views, the North Side takes the prize. From base camp, Everest stands alone in full glory. On the South Side, only the summit is visible.
Base Camp Summary
South Side Pros:
Helicopter rescue available
Social atmosphere with more teams
Less wind, less dust, and no cars
Classic trekking experience
South Side Cons:
Over 1,000 people daily at base camp
Higher illness risk from trekkers
Noisy due to helicopter activity
Poor internet and phone connectivity
North Side Pros:
Quiet, uncrowded base camp (100–200 people)
Full electricity and 5G service
Spectacular views of Everest
Peaceful and clean environment
North Side Cons:
Vehicles parked throughout base camp
Windier, dustier conditions
No helicopter rescue option
Coffee shop at basecamp, North Side Mt. Everest
The Climb
South Side: Nepal
The climb begins with the infamous Khumbu Icefall, often the most dangerous section due to shifting ice and falling seracs. The icefall is maintained by a team of Sherpa who install ladders and fixed ropes. Lines form here due to the technical demands and crowding. Most teams pass through the icefall at least twice during acclimatization, while Sherpas may make 7–8 trips.
From Camp 1, climbers cross the Western Cwm glacier valley to Camp 2. The terrain here is moderate glacier walking, with fixed lines over crevasses and occasional ladders.
Camp 3 is perched on the steep Lhotse Face (35–45 degrees), carved directly into the ice. This uncomfortable camp is necessary before ascending through the Yellow Band and Geneva Spur—steep, mixed rock and ice sections—en route to Camp 4 at the South Col.
On summit day, climbers enter the Death Zone (above 8,000 m). Key landmarks on the push include:
The Balcony
The South Summit
The Cornice Traverse
The partially collapsed Hillary Step
Finally, you reach the summit of Mt. Everest, the highest point on Earth.
Pros:
Less technical terrain on summit day
Helicopter rescue possible up to Camp 3 (weather and conditions permitting)
More climbers and Sherpa teams on the route for support and safety
Primarily walking on snow, with fewer mixed sections
Protected from the strong winds that batter the North Side
No need to sleep above 8,000 meters (Camp 4 is just below)
Generally more comfortable high camps (especially Camp 4)
Cons:
Heavily crowded, often resulting in long wait times and bottlenecks
Significantly higher objective hazard, particularly from falling ice in the Khumbu Icefall
Longer summit day due to starting approximately 1,200 feet lower than the North Side
Mentally and physically demanding summit ridge, with several false summits before the true top
Greater crevasse risk throughout the route, especially in the lower glacier sections
Climbing Above Camp 2 on the South Side of Mt. Everest
North Side (Tibet) – The Climb
The ascent from the North Side begins on the Rongbuk Glacier, following a gradual and scenic trail to Intermediate Camp. This section is long but relatively easy, providing a beautiful introduction to the climb.
From Intermediate Camp, climbers continue to Advanced Base Camp (ABC) at approximately 21,000 ft (6,400 m). Despite the altitude, ABC is relatively comfortable and serves as a key acclimatization point. Most teams spend 3–5 nights here before moving higher.
From ABC, the route climbs steep snow and ice slopes using fixed lines to reach the North Col at 7,000 m (22,965 ft), where Camp 1 is established. Spending a night or two at the North Col is ideal for acclimatization.
The climb then follows the exposed North Ridge to Camp 2 at 7,600 m (24,935 ft), and onward to Camp 3 at 8,300 m (27,230 ft). The terrain becomes steeper and more mixed, with sections of rock, snow, and ice. Oxygen is typically used from Camp 3 onward, as climbers enter the Death Zone. Camp 3 is the highest mountain camp on Earth, with tents often perched on narrow patches of rock and ice. High winds are a constant challenge on this side and can make the upper camps particularly harsh.
The summit push from Camp 3 is both technical and thrilling. Climbers must navigate the First, Second, and Third Steps—rocky obstacles that require careful movement and reliance on fixed ladders and ropes. The Second Step, a nearly vertical rock wall above 8,600 m (28,215 ft), is the most technical and famous feature on this route. Once past it, a short traverse leads to the final summit ridge, which brings climbers to the true summit—with no false summits along the way.
This makes for a highly technical, demanding, and rewarding summit push, offering one of the most classic and challenging high-altitude climbing experiences in the world.
The Second Step on the North Side of Mt. Everest
Which Side Is Right for You?
When comparing the North and South Sides of Everest, a few major factors stand out:
Crowds
Safety
Ease of Climbing
Weather
Crowds
There’s simply no comparison—the North Side is dramatically less crowded.
From Tibet, Everest offers a more intimate, less commercial experience. It doesn’t feel like a circus or a mass expedition with a thousand strangers climbing beside you. This, in my opinion, is one of the biggest reasons to consider the North Side.
On the South Side, I found myself waiting in lines every day, sometimes behind 75+ people. On the North Side, the only time I experienced a wait was on summit day, behind the largest team on the mountain. Even then, there were only about 25 people heading for the summit that day.
Unfortunate Crowding leaving Camp 3 on the South Side of Mt. Everest
Safety
From a safety standpoint, I found the North Side to be significantly safer overall.
When you consider objective vs. subjective hazards, the South Side has far more objective danger—those risks outside of your control. At one point, an oxygen bottle fell from above and nearly hit me. That’s not something I could prevent.
The Khumbu Icefall is another massive risk. Waiting in line to move through one of the most dangerous ice features in the world is, frankly, unreasonable. On any other mountain, no one would accept those risks just to establish a route.
This is one of the main reasons I now prefer the North Side.
Advocates for the South Side often cite the ability to use helicopter rescue up to Camp 3. While that’s valuable, I consider this a subjective hazard—something we can manage ourselves. We control when to stop climbing due to altitude sickness or fatigue. We must climb carefully and make responsible decisions.
On the North Side, while helicopter rescue isn’t an option, we found the objective risks to be far lower. There's still potential for rockfall and minor icefall exposure, but nothing comparable to the Khumbu Icefall.
Ease of Climbing
Once you’re past the Icefall, the South Side offers significantly easier terrain. It’s mostly snow walking with fewer technical challenges.
By contrast, the North Side requires climbers to navigate rock sections at altitude. From Camp 2 to the summit, you'll be moving over mixed terrain, often using crampons on rock and dealing with fixed ladders and steep steps.
Climbers choosing the North Side should have solid technical skills, particularly with movement on exposed, mixed terrain at high altitude.
Weather
Weather is better on the South Side. It’s warmer and has significantly less wind.
This is probably the strongest argument for climbing from Nepal. Wind on the North Side can make both climbing and sleeping more challenging, especially at the higher camps.
Conclusion
For myself and Valhalla Mountain Guides, we no longer guide on the South Side of Everest.
The overwhelming crowds and the danger posed by the Khumbu Icefall create unacceptable risks for our guides, Sherpa teams, and guests. These are hazards we cannot control.
While the South Side offers some clear advantages—like warmer weather, easier climbing, and helicopter rescue—we believe these can be mitigated through high-level forecasting and maintaining a strong technical standard for all our guests.
What we cannot mitigate is the Icefall or the overcrowding.
That said, I do believe everyone should experience the trek to Everest Base Camp. Nepal is beautiful and culturally rich, and the journey through the Khumbu Valley is unforgettable. But that should be a separate trip—perhaps when you're climbing Ama Dablam, or simply enjoying a trekking holiday through the Himalayas.
Author and IFMGA Certified Mountain Guide Connor Chilcott on the summit of Mt. Everest
