Climbing Mount Shasta
Towering 14,180 feet above sea level, Mount Shasta is a sight to behold. Imposing across the flat land of northern California it is an extremely unique feature that almost prods the humans at its base to “climb me if you dare!” While on the outset Shasta seems to be an impenetrable fortress, with the right equipment, knowledge, and guidance, Shasta provides 360 degrees of climbing and skiing potential. From the more mellow south and west side of the mountain to the fully glaciated north side of the mountain. This mountain truly has it all.
South Side of Mount Shasta in early spring.
Weather: California as a whole is privileged to have some of the most stable year-round weather, for those looking for the full mountain weather experience this may sound like a short-coming. Overall, just because it does not get the precip, doesn’t mean the wind won’t be a challenging factor! After working in the pacific northwest for years nothing quite feels as miserable as trying to learn crevasse rescue in the rain, only to take shelter back in your damp tent for the night!
Terrain: Shasta is a volcano, and therefore it is formed in the classic conical shape that volcanoes are known for, which means there are ample slopes in the low to mid angle range which allows for plenty of novice mountain adventures to gain skills. Valhalla’s 3- day avalanche gulch climb would be a great try-out for those wishing to experience mountaineering!
Likewise, those of you who prefer a more technical route to the summit can choose to tackle the north side. The north side of Shasta is similar to Mt. Baker in difficulty and has the added challenge of being glaciated. The north side is also a great venue for gaining the skills necessary to get out onto glaciers without a guide. Valhalla’s 5-day glacier mountaineering course is a perfect first step for those looking to gain the skills for larger glaciated peaks! During this course we cover everything from crevasse rescue, ice climbing, through white out navigation. 5 days with an AMGA certified Alpine Guide will give you the confidence to attempt the rest of the peaks in the Cascades.
Mount Shasta from the Northeast in early June.
Access: Compared to the volcanoes farther north, Shasta’s access is unrivaled! Many other volcanoes like Mt. Baker or Mt. Rainier requires multiple hours of driving to a town in the middle of nowhere only to then continue driving for a couple of hours into the mountains. The driving is often on dirt logging roads that could use 2 tons of gravel to fill the pot holes!
Shasta, rising primarily out of the flat earth around it, allows for easier driving up to the trailheads. Also, by virtue of having a major highway and a town adjacent to the western flank, the access to the most used trailhead is completely paved! That’s not to say all of Shasta has really nice paved roads though, getting into the Hotlum- Bolam side is still a little sporty, but the added benefit of the California sunlight, and lack of dense forests still make it an overall easier drive!
Altitude: Shasta stands at an incredible 14,180 feet tall! This puts Shasta in the top 30 highest mountains (in the lower 48) and in the top 50 highest mountains in all of North America! Anyone who wants to climb all the major volcanoes in the Cascade Range, or anyone who wants to climb all the California fourteeners will find Shasta a very attainable starting point!
This is all good news for those of you who want to climb some of the world’s tallest peaks! Any mountain above 14,000 feet is, in our opinion, considered a high altitude peak. For Mt. Shasta or similar 14ers we do not need to acclimate, however acclimating is always beneficial. Mt. Shasta is a perfect peak to see how your body reacts to the thin air. Valhalla Mountain Guides offers a series of mountain climbs from 14,000 feet in California to 18,000’ + in Mexico to 21,000’+ in Ecuador to Mt. Everest at 29,032’.
By now you're probably thinking: “ok you sold me on Shasta, now what is there to climb on this thing?” Well, I’m glad I made you ask! Shasta has four main climbing routes up to the summit.
Summit of Mount Shasta after a one-day ascent of Clear Creek.
Climbing Routes
Avalanche Gulch: By far the most popular and commonly traveled route up the mountain. The ease of access and scenic views attracts everyone from day trippers, local hikers, climbers, and skiers alike!
Clear Creek: A perfect option to get away from the crowds of Avalanche Gulch while still being a great and scenic climb! Clear Creek comes into the best conditions before the Hotlum- Bolam, but a little later in the season than the Gulch so it provides a great mid ground before getting on the more intense east side of the mountain! This route is best done after avalanche gulch has melted out and rockfall becomes an issue. Usually after July 4th.
Hotlum - Bolam: A classic ascent of this iconic mountain, the Hotlum - Bolam threads the needle between two of Shasta’s glaciers. You climb a ridge that splits between the Bolam and Hotlum glaciers, this is a great route for those that want a bit more scrambling terrain between the more common hiking sections up to the summit block!
Hotlum Glacier: The Hotlum is probably the best glacier on the mountain, while the other Shasta glaciers tend to be more “dormant,” and don’t provide as much crevasse hazard. The Hotlum glacier is still quite a bit alive, proving almost tricky glacier travel for about 2,500 feet ascending to the summit. Valhalla’s 5-day glacier- mountaineering course takes place on this route!
The call of the mountains is always an interesting one. No one has the answer as to why we desire ascending these snow covered peaks. While standing in the lowlands, one almost feels compelled to brave the flanks of the far-off citadels in the distance, only to be greeted with the pain of a heavy pack and the suffering of the elements. It seems that the mountain wanted you up there so you could see its evil fangs up close. As you ascend higher the context grows ever grimmer, the air is colder, the wind fiercer, the sun more ravaging, and the muscles growing ever more fatigued. The mountain is the great equalizer of human resolve, and mental fortitude becomes the watchword to galvanize the few who crest the final horizon to the summit. For the few who heed the call of the mountains outside their front door, and to those who dream of the far-off peak across the world, the proper experience and technique will take you there. Shasta is more than just a mound of rock, dirt, ice, and snow, it’s the starting point to a new lifestyle and philosophy. One that means more than performing in your day job, a truer and greater fulfillment that is only achieved by putting in a lot of hard work over a very short period of time. Shasta provides for all the experience that will change a life. Mt. Shasta provides the real mountain experience all adventures desire.
Climbing through the Red Banks on Mount Shasta.