Introduction To Rock Climbing Gear
By Connor Chilcott
IFMGA Mountain Guide
So, you are planning to enter the vertical world? Here I will be describing the necessary equipment you need to begin. Whether you are planning to climb in the gym or you are ready to get outside, here is the gear necessary for gym climbing, top rope climbing, and sport climbing. Remember there are plenty of options for each of these pieces of gear. I will give you a few options in each category.
Gym Climbing Gear
Rock Shoes
These shoes are specifically designed for rock climbing. They have sticky rubber and a precise fit.
When sizing these shoes we recommend wearing them without socks. These shoes will stretch a bit but not much. You want the fit to be tight but not too uncomfortable. Don’t let the shop associate sell you on downsizing. Comfort is key to enjoying your climbing experience. Every brand's sizing is different so it is crucial you try them on. I wear a size 9 street shoe and an 8 ½ rock shoe from LA sportiva.
Your first rock climbing shoe should just be a standard all around shoe similar to these listed below.
La Sportiva Finale
Scarpa Reflex VS
Black Diamond Momentum
Harness
For your first harness you want to find something that is comfortable and adjustable. If you plan on excelling to climbing outside quickly then it may be worth getting some a bit lighter and more expensive.
Make sure your harness fits you well. It is meant to sit above your hip bone. It needs to be tight. Make sure the harness has 4 gear loops and a belay loop.
Below are some examples of good first harnesses
Black Diamond Momentum harness
Petzl Adjama Harness
Examples of a lighter weight harness
Grivel Trend Harness
Petzl Sitta Harness
Chalk Bag
A chalk bag is used to keep our hands from getting wet and sweaty. Our hands are our connection to the rock. Often we will sweat and the chalk is extremely useful for keeping confidence on the rock.
Examples of Chalk Bag
Grivel logo chalk bag
Static Climbing chalk bag
Locking Carabiner
For gym climbing you need 1 locking carabiner. These come in all shapes and sizes. I recommend for your first carabiner getting a round stock pear shaped carabiner.
Examples
Black Diamond Rock Lock
Petzl Attache
Belay Device
Air traffic Controller (ATC)
A belay device is to assist you with the rope in catching your partner if they fall.
If you are planning on climbing outside at any point I recommend getting a belay device with guide mode. This allows you to correctly belay on multi pitch climbs.
Examples of ATC
Gri Gri (Assisted breaking device)
These belay devices are quite a bit pricier. However they have made their way onto every climber's harness. This does not replace an ATC as it is more difficult to rappel. This is an assisted breaking device. That means if for some reason your hand comes off the rope, it is made to cam on the rope and arrest the fall.
Examples of ATC
Petzl Reversso
Black Diamond ATC Guide
Grivel Master Pro
Examples of Gri Gri
Beal Birdie
Petzl Gri Gri
With this gear, you will be able to top rope in the gym. You will also need this gear for the following activities.
Sport Climbing
Sport climbing is defined as climbing using preexisting bolts as protection. These bolts have been placed by someone else. As you lead up you will attach the rope to each bolt via a quickdraw. This is called lead climbing and you can take a fall. Lead climbing is only to be done after one has significant top roping experience. I also recommend lead climbing at your local gym before venturing outside.
Helmet
Helmet
A rock climbing rated helmet is important for outdoor climbing. This helps protect you from rockfall. It also can save your life if you hit your head on the wall.
There are plastic helmets and foam helmets. The foam helmets will be lighter, more expensive and less durable. I do find investing in a good foam helmet is worth it if you plan to do more climbing.
Examples of Foam Helmets
Grivel Stealth Helmet
Grivel Mutant Helmet
Black Diamond Vapor Helmet
Petzl Sirocco Helmet
Climbing Rope
A rope between 9.1 and 9.8 I have an entire blog post dedicated to ropes.
I have an entire blog post dedicated to ropes here. https://www.valhallamountainguides.com/blog/intro-to-climbing-ropes
Quick Draws
Quick draws are what we use to attach the rope to the bolt.
12 quickdraws will get you through most sport climbs.
It is important to consult an app or guide book to know how many bolts are on a certain route. This way you will bring the appropriate number of quickdraws.
Quickdraws last a long time. I find it is better to invest in good quickdraws that do not have a wire notch.
You can often buy quickdraws in a set of 6. This is cheaper than buying them individually.
Examples of quick draws
Grivel Stealth Quickdraw
Black Diamond Hot Forge Quickdraw
Petzl Spirit Quickdraw
Anchor Building Material
Having some equipment to make anchors is a good idea. Often you can just use 2 quickdraws. However if the bolts are spaced weirdly apart then having some material is crucial.
Having a couple extra locking and non-locking carabiners is crucial as well.
Examples of anchor building material
Cordelette: 18-20 ft of 7-8mm accessory cord. The cord should be tied together with either a flemish bend, 2 inline flat overhands, or a double fisherman's knot.
180-320 centimeter sling
2 locking carabiners
2 non locking carabiners.
Remember it is important to practice with your gear or take a course to learn how to build proper anchors.
